Handiwork Jewelry

Titanium and Tungsten Wedding Bands

2010-05-21T12:21:00.000-07:00

What is strong as steel but light as a feather?

If you guessed titanium, you probably already know about the latest use of this metal for jewelry. Men are often using titanium or it's similarly appearing counterpart, tungsten, which has the same density as gold. More often used as an alloy element in steel for industrial uses, both metals boast a gunmetal dull appearance that many men find appealing. We have begun carrying titanium and tungsten wedding bands at Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis. Although titanium and tungsten rings may not be sized by our jewelers, but bands start at only $30.

Diamond Wedding Bands

2010-05-21T12:11:00.000-07:00

We recently created some new diamond wedding bands that fit well with most engagement rings. These thin but durable 2.0+ mm bands feature pave or prong set round diamonds in 14 Karat white gold and start at $250. At these prices, many of our brides choose to buy two so they can wear one on each side of the engagement ring.

0.25 Carats of round single cut diamonds, which have a unique sparkle that only these antique hand cut diamonds offer ($275)

0.35 carats of round diamonds pave set in rounded 14 karat white gold wedding band ($389)

0.50 carats of prong set round diamonds in a 14 Karat white gold wedding band ($375)

Removing a Ring Stuck on the Finger

2009-08-07T08:49:00.001-07:00

This summer, we at Handiwork have seen a good number of ladies arriving at our store in Memphis with quite a dilemma on hand, literally. These very faithful women have worn their wedding ring every day and night since they got married, and anywhere from five to fifty years later, bodies and hands have changed while their ring remained the same size. Other times, a pregnancy or hospital trip results in water retention, making your hands swell.

A panic phone call starts off with a, "My ring is stuck on my finger, and I have tried everything! Can you cut it off?" After trying to remove the now too small ring with lotion, petroleum jelly, butter, and even oil, they are now desperate to restore the circulation in their fingers. Also be sure to try soaking your hand in ice water since our hands sometimes swell in warmer conditions. I also found this nifty but doubtful ring removal trick with string online here.

When all else fails, you can come to a local jeweler like Handiwork, and we can remove the ring while you keep your finger. I do know that hospitals will also be able to do a similar thing, but I have seen their efficient work, which destroys the ring's shank (band) more than necessary.

We use a ring cutter remover very similar to the one found here on Ebay and available at a pretty good deal (under $15 with shipping).

This handheld tool has a blunted hook that fits under the band between the ring and the finger. A small rounded saw rotated by hand (the extended bar with round disk pictured above) slowly and gently grinds away a thin line into the gold or silver. Once we hear a snap, we remove the ring cutter and take two pairs of pliers to slowly pull apart the band to minimize damage to the ring. Having this done at Handiwork is no charge if you then decide to have it re-sized, otherwise it costs $25.

In order to prevent this from happening, we recommend taking your rings off at night, as well as taking them off to be cleaned at home or at a local jewelers (free jewelry cleaning at Handiwork Jewelry!). Additionally, if you are pregnant or entering a hospital, remove your jewelry and keep it at home for safekeeping. We have unfortunately heard many stories of jewelry being lost or stolen at the hospital.

Tsavorite (Green Garnet)

2009-07-07T15:28:00.000-07:00

Is it an emerald? Or a green garnet?
If you guessed, tsavorite ( then you do not need to read any further.

You're the apple of my eye...
This green garnet (tsavorite) and diamond ring is in 18 Karat yellow gold and makes a bold fashion statement.

Here is a side view of this unique fashion ring, which can be found at Handiwork Jewelry.

This 22+ Carat tsavorite retails at over $140,000 here

Tsavorites are often described as having a rich apple green color. More information on tsavorites (green garnets) can be found here and here.

July Birthstone: Rubies

2009-07-01T11:44:00.001-07:00

The princess cut rubies in this 14 Karat white gold ring have a more pink red hue. This antique ring features an old European cut, round diamond in the center. Small diamonds accent the thin band on each side.

This 14 Karat white gold ring features a natural, oval cut ruby with a pink hue. The intricate detail and filigree work in this ring give it a more vintage appeal.

This natural, round cut ruby has a nice ruby red color that we usually have in mind.

This setting is a classic example of a ruby and diamond engagement ring. It can also be used as a fashion ring, but the baguette cut diamonds and lace design on the band are reminiscent of many antique engagement rings.

This natural, radiant cut ruby is accented by two emerald cut diamond solitaires for a classic past, present, future ring.

The red in rubies compliments yellow gold very nicely, as seen in this oval cut ruby ring with diamond accents.

June Birthstone: Alexandrite or Pearl

2009-07-01T11:43:00.001-07:00

Although June passed, here is a post on last month's birthstone.

This natural, oval cut alexandrite has the whimsical quality of changing colors depending on the lighting. Here it looks more purple or magenta. Alexandrite is purported to be discovered in 1830 on the birth date of Alexander II in Russia, and hence it's name. In addition to being found mined in Russia, alexandrites can also be found in Brazil, Sri Lanka, India, Zimbabwe, and Burma.

In other lighting, however, it looks more dark forest green, teal/blue green, or even chocolate.

For contrast on color, here is a picture from the web showing off an alexandrite's more blue/green shade.

This is a simulated (or synthetic/man made), trillion cut alexandrite. Here you can see how the green and purple appears at the same time. Synthetic alexandrites are more common because a natural alexandiret from the earth is quite expensive on a per carat basis. For example, check out this 3.61 Carat, cushion cut genuine alexandrite for over $42,000.

Given the rarity of natural alexandrites, pearls are also an alternative birthstone for June. This 14 Karat white gold diamond and pearl ring has an antique feel with small prong set diamonds. The vertical direction of the five pearls makes this ring ideal for a pointer finger ring.

We also have this 14 Karat yellow gold pearl ring with three diamond accents (two on this side and one on the other side). This ring has a more modern edge with its smooth and sleek appearance.

If you are looking for a ring that makes a statement, you should consider this 14 Karat white gold ring with two large, genuine pearls in a bypass design. Diamond accents echo an inifinity design in the ring.

For earrings, we carry an affordable pair of pearl studs in 14 Karat gold with a diamond accent for only $45.

Along with white pearls, there are also black Tahitian pearls that have a beautiful peacock green, purple hue.

Cute Critters

2009-06-02T10:44:00.000-07:00

Take a look at some of Handiwork's sea creatures...

This 14 Karat gold crab pendant has round diamonds on its back.

This 14 Karat white and yellow gold puffer fish pendant also doubles as a brooch. Diamond lips and diamond spots make this one super cute.

This 14 Karat white and yellow gold dolphin brooch has diamond spots on its body.

This 14 Karat yellow gold enamel brooch of a fish is colorful and fun to wear.

This 14 Karat dolphin pendant features a black opal with speckles of blue and green for the ocean.

This small 14 Karat gold turtle has a lot of details and would dangle nicely from a charm bracelet.
Cost: $45

A natural, oval cut peridot is the center of this 14 Karat frog charm.
Cost: $55

Perhaps this 18 karat gold sapphire, ruby, emerald, and diamond cricket brooch should have been appeared with the butterflies and bees, but it is definitely a cute critter.

This diamond encrusted hummingbird in 18 Karat white gold has freshwater pearls for wings.

This is only one side of a pair of 14 Karat gold dangling peacock earrings with diamond cut.

This 14 Karat gold camel has a beautiful enamel finish to really make it come to life on a necklace or charm bracelet.

For the dog lover, we have a 14 Karat gold cocker spaniel with ruby eyes.

And for the cat lover, we have a 14 Karat gold kitten brooch with diamonds and a bow tie.

Butterflies and more...

2009-06-02T10:26:00.000-07:00

This butterfly brooch/pendant has 1.00

This 14 Karat gold butterfly earring and pendant set is actually reversible from white to yellow, as shown with the two earrings.

For those who love opals and butterflies, this necklace is the perfect combination.

The owner of Handiwork casted and set these sapphires, rubies, and diamonds in this 14 Karat gold butterfly pendant/brooch.

This sweet butterfly pendant features marquise cut, natural blue topazes, purple amethysts, and yellow topazes. A small round diamond is prong set at the top.

Cost: $59

The owner of Handiwork also created this red, white, and blue 14 Karat gold moth pendant with rubies, diamonds, and sapphires.

This much larger moth is similar to the one above, except it features a large pear cut, natural blue topaz and doubles as a pendant and brooch.

Along with butterflies, the owner of Handiwork also created bees! This diamond encrusted bee pin/pendant has emerald eyes.

Meanwhile this 14 Karat gold bee pendant features round, natural blue sapphires on its back.

This 14 Karat gold locket pendant has a spider on top with an oval cut emerald and light pink ruby.

Unique Pieces

2009-06-02T10:15:00.000-07:00

At Handiwork I am always pleasantly surprised by the selection of unique pieces offered. Take a look at these items:

A diamond encrusted 14 Kart gold golf bag that can be worn as a pendant or brooch.

Walk like an Egyptian... or wear some diamond and 14 Karat gold pharaoh earrings.

These miniature 14 Karat gold handcuffs with diamond cut are the perfect size for dangling on a charm bracelet.

Why wear a corsage of fresh flowers, when you can wear a diamond and gold flower brooch that will last forever?

And last but not least, a 14 Karat gold baby shoe with five round diamonds in the shape of a flower.

Cambodian Jewelry

2009-05-27T09:27:00.000-07:00

The owners of Handiwork Jewelry are from Cambodia, so it only makes sense there are a few handcrafted pieces from their native country.

This Cambodian star pendant has 2.65 Carats in round brilliant cut diamonds. This is such a distinctive Cambodian piece that many other Southeast Asians know the wearer is often Cambodian.

This version of the Cambodian pendant looks more like a flower.

These 18 Karat white and yellow gold necklaces feature round diamonds in a bezel set. This is the Cambodian version of Tiffany's diamonds by the yard necklace by Elsa Peretti (before there was such a thing!)

Here is a close up of the trio diamond tennis necklace.

Enamel Jewelry

2009-05-22T12:58:00.000-07:00

A post on Faberge enamel jewelry is available here, but this post is more about Art Deco inspired enamel jewelry. The owner of Handiwork created several pieces with black enamel and white diamonds in the late 1990s.

A statement ring best worn on a pointer finger features black enamel accenting the 2.50 Carats of white diamonds.

The black enamel on this 2.10 Carat bangle makes the seven round brilliant cut diamond solitaires sparkle even more.

This vintage black enamel ring features 0.55 Carats in round diamonds.
Cost: $450

This 0.70 Carat diamond ring has a delicate black enamel border.
Cost: $725

The texture and colors on this blue enamel band are sure to get many compliments.
Cost: $475

Red Diamonds

2009-05-22T12:51:00.001-07:00

The most famous red diamond is the 5.11 Carat trillion cut Moussaieff Red diamond (i.e. Red Shield), originally found in Brazil. More can be found here at the Smithsonian website.

At Handiwork, we have one elegant 14 Karat white gold pendant with red and white diamonds in a concentric circle.

Jewelry Repair

2009-05-16T10:53:00.000-07:00

Many of our customers know Handiwork Jewelry for our jewelry repair services. We repair necklaces and rings, as well as size rings and make bracelets and necklaces longer with added extensions. Have you ever lost one earring? If we are unable to make a match, we can transform the remaining earring into a pendant or ring for continued wear.

Here is a price list of a few jewelry repair services offered at Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis:
$5 Sterling silver jump rings (small)
$6 Watch battery replacement
$10 Watch bracelet adjustment (adding or removing watch links)
$10 Sterling silver clasps
$10 Cut and remove a ring too small from finger
$15 Solder (welding) small necklaces and thin bands
$15 Starting price for ring sizing
$2 per inch Pearl re-stringing with knots in between each

We have a jewelers bench on site at Handiwork for a quick turnaround of 2-3 days. Our jeweler rotates between our two other locations (Crown Jewelry and Star Jewelry), so we can sometimes offer same day service. Watch services can be provided while you wait (10 to 15 minutes).

Many customers also ask if we repair eyeglass frames. We unfortunately only work with gold, platinum, or sterling silver. We recommend your local Fast Fix. In Memphis, there is one location in the Wolfchase Mall.

May Birthstone

2009-05-16T08:36:00.000-07:00

Natural emeralds come in various shades of green. Take a look at how emeralds look set in yellow gold with diamond accents.

This is a large 2.00 Carat princess cut, emerald ring with 1.00 Carat in baguette and round diamonds in 14 Karat gold.
Cost: $3150

This is a unique trillion, cabochon cut emerald ring with pave diamonds in 18 Karat yellow gold.

These earrings feature a 1.00 Carat radiant cut emerald in each ear in 14 Karat gold.
Cost: $1290

Here are just a few of the natural emerald and diamond rings available at Handiwork in white gold and platinum.

This bezel set emerald ring with prong set diamonds in white gold has a vintage appeal.

A pear shaped emerald is accented by two pear shaped diamonds in white gold. Notice the fine antique engraving in the band.

Radiant cut diamonds surround this radiant cut emerald in a simple three stone platinum setting.

This wide diamond pave band features an oval cut emerald in white gold.

Trillion cut diamonds accent this radiant cut emerald in a simple and elegant setting.

A cushion cut 1.35 Carat emerald is accented with two round diamonds, each weighing 0.20 Carats.

Birthstone Re-Cap

2009-05-15T13:31:00.000-07:00

October was the last birthstone featured, so I figure there should be a re-cap of November to April before May can be posted. Here goes!

NOVEMBER

Yellow topaz is the official birthstone for November, but citrines and yellow sapphires (and even a yellow diamond) would all work well for Thanksgiving circa babies.

This 18 Karat gold Torrini ring features a bezel set, multi-faceted citrine.

Belts can be worn around your waist... or on your hand. This citrine belt ring is accented by chocolate diamonds with a black enamel background.

For only $159, this 14 Karat yellow gold right hand ring featuring a large natural oval, yellow topaz is sure to make a statement.

DECEMBER

Blue topazes are a favorite, even if you were not born in the month of December.

This bangle with a solitaire, trillion cut blue topaz and yellow topaz is a perfect transition from November to December.

This trillion cut blue topaz pendant in white gold is accented by five round diamonds

These 14 Karat gold chandelier earrings will dangle with briolette cut blue topaz tear drops.

JANUARY

Garnets are a deep red brown hue that people either love or hate. If you appreciate antique jewelry, garnets can often be found in vintage pieces.

This 14 Karat natural, oval garnet ring with round diamonds is a steal at only $145.

This past, present, and future three natural, oval garnet ring in 14 Karat gold is only $99!

FEBRUARY

Purple amethysts here we go... a resilient and well priced gemstone.

This is another 18 Kart gold ring from Torrini and features a multi-faceted amethyst that reflects the light with little stars.

MARCH

Aquamarines and their light light blue, green (seagreen) color are also found in vintage jewelry. Aquamarines can be very expensive depending on their hue and quality.

APRIL

Diamonds are a girl's best friend... and April babies are just plain lucky. If you want an alternative, try white sapphires, or synthetic diamonds (cubic zirconia).

Cashing in Gold

2009-05-15T10:56:00.000-07:00

In the past ten years, the price of gold has tripled in value. When we say gold, however, we should clarify this is the price for pure gold (24 Karat). A lot of fashion jewelry we see is made of gold and other alloys resulting in 10 Karat (41.7% pure gold), 14 Karat (58.5% pure gold), or 18 Karat (75% pure gold). As seen in the Kitco 10 Year Gold graph below, pure gold was priced at under $300 per ounce (31.1 grams) and today gold is at $932 per ounce.

I recommend live market quotes on precious metals here: http://www.kitco.com/market/

There are many televised and radio commercials advertising they buy gold, but I can not see myself mailing an envelope of my valuables. It is true that the price of gold has increased, and if you do not wear your jewelry or it is broken, I recommend you visit your local jewelry store to get a quote.

At Handiwork Jewelry, we have helped clients sort through their jewelry inherited from a grandmother (lover of both costume jewelry and authentic pieces!), as well as transform an heirloom into something a bit more modern. So if you are looking for a place to sell your gold or repair jewelry, please consider Handiwork in Memphis.

$9.5 Million 7.03 Carat Blue Diamond

2009-05-15T10:53:00.000-07:00

The Sotheby's auction in Geneva set a new world record this past Tuesday for the highest dollar per carat paid for a blue diamond. The BBC article is available here.

Shopping Smart

2009-03-28T16:50:00.000-07:00

Recently in the news, several jewelry stores and departments are shutting down and closing out with seemingly, incredible sales of 30 to 80 percent off. Curious to see if these were true bargains, I went to the mall and visited one jewelry chain store, as well as the jewelry department in a large department store.

These are your most basic stable, a pair of diamond solitaire stud earrings. The variations on these, however, can become mind boggling. From the diamond clarity and color to the setting style (classic 4 prong above, 3 prong martini, bezel set, screw back, yellow gold, etc), it can sometimes be hard to compare prices. For our purposes, I use an SI-1 clarity and H color as the basis.

I was surprised to find that the prices were double or triple Handiwork's prices. Even with a sale of up to 80% their items would get closer to our everyday tag prices. Let's take a pair of 1.00 Carat diamond earrings as an example.

At Macy's jewelry department, the regular price is $3800. Currently it is on sale for $2393, whereas at our store we have a pair of 1.00 Carat (1/2 CT each ear) start at $1400.

Also at Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis, we have a pair of 1/4 CT (0.25CT)(total weight) diamond studs in 14 Karat white gold start at $169 while a pair totaling 1/2 CT (0.50CT) diamond studs start at $385.

Although we are a small, family owned business, we do believe it maintaining competitive prices. If you find an identical jewelry item at another store for less, please let us know and we will do our best to match that price and even beat it by another 15%. Plus we provide that intimate shopping experience (and free jewelry cleaning!) that you never will find at a department store or jewelry shop in the mall.

And as all smart shoppers know, it is not the discount percentage, but the final price you pay that matters. In a time where a dollar means a lot, beware of those big sales that lure people into thinking they are getting a bargain.

Pre-owned Rolex Watches

2009-02-28T20:57:00.000-08:00

I definitely do NOT consider myself a luxury watch expert, but at Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis, I have had the opportunity to observe and learn a lot about a few watch brands, especially the well known Rolex watch. In spite of the general awareness and appreciation of Rolex, I am actually more partial to the Cartier, but we shall save that luxury watch brand for another day.

In my personal opinion, I believe the above pictured Rolex Datejust with a two-tone Jubilee band is the most classic and iconic image of a Rolex watch. This style and design has also been replicated and copied as much as possible by other brands and replica Rolex companies. Many people may ask, "Why would I spend so much on a watch? A Timex costs less than $50!"

To that, all I can say is that you pay for what you get, and the fact that Rolex watches from the early 1900s are still traded and collected tells us that they are an investment, a timepiece that can be passed on throughout generations. I also have a Timex, but I do not plan to gift this reliable but velcro strap watch on to my great grandchildren.

The most common question at Handiwork Jewelry is often the simple, "How do I know this is a real Rolex?" This is truly a dilemma, even for jewelers, as fake Rolexes are getting better each year. There are several sites scattered throughout the internet that assist in explaining, like this one: http://www.replicainspector.com/free-replica-watch-guide.htm

Here are my top ten hints for beginners based on experience and research.

1. Genuine Rolex watches do NOT have clear backs.

[Image from www.djbwatches.com]

There are few instances where people prefer this clear back and will go out of their way to purchase an aftermarket part, but Rolex does NOT release their watches with this backing.

2. Authentic Rolex watches do NOT have a battery. An oscillator is at the heart of each movement, which means it will keep ticking as long as it is on your wrist. If set down for 48 hours, you will need to give it a gentle shake to jumpstart the Rolex and its infamous perpetual, self winding, movement.

3. The second hand does NOT have a smooth sweeping movement. This is also related to the oscillator, which ticks five to eight times per second, and accounts for its precision as a reliable time piece. Many watches have second hands that "tick" versus "sweep."

4. The cyclops "bubble" magnifying piece over the date of the watch does NOT make the number larger (2.5x). When examining a genuine Rolex watch, you will notice the number without the cyclops is normal sized, while with the bubble it is larger.

5. The model number (at 12 o'clock) and serial number (at 6 o'clock) SHOULD be found upon removing the watch band, along the case between the lugs. For a reference of years based on serial numbers, see here: http://www.preownedrolex.com/images/html/dateyourrolex.htm

Model Number

Serial Number

Something new to be on the lookout for? Since 2006, the serial number usually located where the band meets the case has been moved to the inside face of the watch -- under the rim of the bezel.

6. The Rolex crown icon SHOULD be found on the stem, and there should be a line or three dots under it. The detail of the crown should look crisp with clean lines.

7. The Rolex crown icon SHOULD be found on the buckle of the watch bracelet.

8. Pins connecting the watch links of the bracelet do NOT have split pins like the average watch. They SHOULD have a small slot for easy removal with a screwdriver.

9. The back of the watch does NOT easily come off. Authentic Rolex watches have a grooved backing that fits 144 small teeth.

10. The BEST way to get a 99% accuracy is to open the back of the watch with special Rolex case opening tools that come in different sizes. The distinctive red gears and detailed precision of the movement have eluded many Rolex replica companies.

Those afraid of making a mistake should either consult a jeweler, purchase a pre-owned watch with its original box and certificate of authentication, or trust a reptuatble, well established jeweler. There are authorized dealers selling and maintaining new Rolex watches, and there are small, family owned jewelry stores like Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis who sell pre-owned Rolex watches, backed by a personal guarantee of their authenticity.

To wrap up, please take a look at some recommended sites I came across while writing this post.

For the most recent releases, models, and trends, definitely visit the official Rolex site.

For a history of the London based Rolex company (originally Wilsdorf & Davis) since 1905, be sure to check out this site: http://www.demesy.com/histories/rolex_watch.html

My favorite highlights include: (1) originally women wore wristwatches in the 1800s, while men carried pocketwatches -- Wilsdorf of Rolex was determined to make a precise and reliable wristwatch to withstand the moisture and dirt associated with daily wear; (2) the water resistant nature lead to its current Rolex "Oyster" name; (3) and Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel TWICE, but her wrist was a bit heavier the second time as she sported a Rolex presented to her by Wilsdorf.

For watch aficionados and luxury watch collectors, vintage Rolex watches (no longer produced) are in a league of their own, with certain model numbers more coveted than others. I recommend this site for more information on Submariners: http://www.vintagesubmariner.com/vintagesubs.html

Rolex watch enthusiasts will also appreciate the informative details and high definition pictures on this site: http://doubleredseadweller.com

If you want to start dabbling into other luxury watch brands, I also recommend this site: http://luxurywatchexchange.com/

P.S. As a scuba diver, I appreciate the water resistance of Rolex and other watch brands to certain depths. The ironic truth, however, is that is not recommended to wear something too shiny with metal in the water, as sea creatures will mistaken it for glistening shimmers of small fish or luring tackle.

Valentine's Day Specials

2009-02-06T15:52:00.001-08:00

Happy Hearts Day is arriving in just a little over a week!

We are running a few specials at Handiwork Jewelry

Save up to 30% on our great selection plus receive a FREE pearl bracelet (valued at $50) when you purchase $250 or more.

24 Karat Gold Roses are $55

Precious gemstone color rings, like this smoky topaz ring, are only $99

A heart pendant with 1.00 Carat of baguette and round diamonds is only $249

We will be open Valentine's Day on Saturday, February 14th from 10am to 6pm

Replacing Watch Straps

2009-02-06T15:38:00.000-08:00

We get a fair number of customers at Handiwork Jewelry asking us for replacement watch straps, and I have usually been unable to provide concrete assistance, besides suggesting Target or Macy's. Today I found a great site with reasonable prices and selection. It is called www.voguestrap.com, and I was able to find an elusive 6mm leather band!

They teach you how to properly measure the width of the watch strap you will need to order here. Just take a ruler or measuring tape and find the distance between the two lugs, the point where the strap meets the edge of the watch.

Installation is relatively easy, because there is a spring loaded pin which can be depressed into the pin hole of the lug. I find the small tip of eyeglass screws helpful.

Straps, especially leather ones, are susceptible to daily wear, tear, and believe it or not, stink! Some people like to buy different colored watch straps for the different seasons, white for spring and black for winter, etc. More commonly, the leather simply cracks and breaks. Metal straps sometimes have to be replaced if an important piece like the buckle or connector between the lug and strap is lost or broken. I have also seen folks come in with expansion or flexible watch straps that are too big, and these can not be adjusted, but you can buy a smaller expansion strap. Be sure to check out voguestraps.com! They're officially for original Timex replacement straps, but it fit my non-Timex watch just fine.

For specific replacement straps by brands, try watchbands.com.

Good luck!

Yellow Diamonds

2008-11-20T08:49:00.001-08:00

People either love or hate fancy yellow diamonds, also known as canary diamonds. These fancy color diamonds occur naturally, but they can also be created synthetically in the lab or their colors can be enhanced through radiation. From Wikipedia, "Yellow diamonds are more profitable because they can be made more quickly and cost less to manufacture than blue or colorless diamonds."

Natural yellow diamonds have also made their mark in history; they also range in pale, light yellows to intense, vivid yellows. The most famous are the cushion cut Tiffany Yellow diamond (287.42 Carats), the uncut Oppenheimer Diamond (253.7 Carats), the nine-sided rose cut Florentine diamond (137.27 Carats), the 3cm long Diamond Shah (88.7 Carats), and the shield shaped Sancy Diamond (55.23 Carats).

Tiffany Yellow Diamond

Oppenheimer Diamond

Florentine Diamond

Sancy Diamond

Here are a few of the yellow diamond pieces at Handiwork Jewelry:

Four yellow princess cut diamonds are invisible set at the top of these 1/2 Carat diamond earrings, set in 14 Karat yellow gold.
Cost: $350
These 1.00 Carat total weight, round cut yellow diamond solitaire earring studs are set in a simple four prong setting.
Cost: $1120

This 14 Karat yellow gold pendant has 3/4 Carats of princess cut, yellow diamonds bordering a row of white, baguette cut diamonds. The unique patterning of this pendant is accomplished through an invisible setting.
Cost: $645

This 1.20 Carat round brilliant solitaire is a light yellow diamond. A total of 0.85 Carats in channel set princess cut diamonds are mounted in this platinum wedding set.

This vintage replica wedding set has a 1.46 Carat light yellow diamond solitaire as its centerpiece. A total of 0.55 Carats in round cut diamonds are pave set in the 18 Karat white gold setting.

Blue Diamonds

2008-11-15T11:22:00.000-08:00

The most famous of blue diamonds would have to be the Hope Diamond, a 45.52 Carat on display at the Smithsonian in DC. The natural blue in these fancy color diamonds is attributed to trace amounts of the element boron.

Here are a few of Handiwork Jewelry's blue diamond pieces:

Blue diamonds and white diamonds in floral cluster earrings

Round blue diamonds with white baguette diamonds in a yellow gold diamond tennis bracelet

An oval white diamond with two round blue diamonds on each side of this unique, platinum diamond engagement ring

This lady's blue and white diamond cluster ring is great for a pointer finger.

This dome like lady's ring has blue and white diamonds bezel set in white gold.

This past, present, future diamond pendant drop has a blue diamond has its centerpiece.

This lady's blue and white, princess cut diamond pendant is channel set in a simple drop.

Another spin on the three drop pendant with four princess cut diamonds set to look like one larger solitaire.

Eight blue diamonds with four white diamonds are mounted in the center of this white gold band.

Green Diamonds

2008-11-07T09:42:00.000-08:00

We have already covered green amethysts (actually prasiolites), and now it's time to continue the series on color diamonds.... today's feature includes green diamonds, which are formed naturally from exposure to radioactive material. The most famous is the Dresden Green Diamond, found in Germany.

At Handiwork Jewelry, we carry only a few pieces.

Three round white diamonds are bezel set with round, green diamonds hand set around each solitaire.

Four white diamond clusters are supported by green diamond branches in this unique band.

Also available in white gold...

Green diamonds are hand set in this vintage style wedding band with white diamonds accenting the lace, filigree design on each side of the band.

Champagne Diamonds

2008-10-30T15:53:00.001-07:00

Now that we've busted the myth of white diamonds only, I want to introduce other "color" diamonds. Today's post is dedicated to champagne or chocolate diamonds, which range from a light yellow/brown to a rich, dark brown. Clever jewelry marketing people tend to call these warmer colored diamonds champagne or cognac diamonds.

Do champagne, chocolate, and chocolate diamonds occur naturally or are they artificial?
The answer is yes, to both. There are some natural ones, and there are others that have had their colors enhanced through irradiation.

Here are a few Handiwork Jewelry pieces with this warmer, color diamond as its centerpiece and accent

$895
0.50CT round champagne diamond solitaire with white diamonds pave set in the mounting

$675
0.61 CT round champagne diamond solitaire bezel set pendant in 14K yellow gold

$395
0.30CT round cognac diamonds in the petals of this 14K white gold and white diamond pendant

$945
1.25 CT of white and light champagne diamonds in 14K two tone journey pendant

$950
1.05 CT simple journey pendant with light champagne and white diamonds bezel set in 14K gold

$620
0.68CT champagne diamond solitaire engagement ring in a simple 14K yellow gold six-prong Tiffany setting

$695
0.77CT champagne diamond solitaire engagement ring in a simple 14K yellow gold six-prong Tiffany setting

$145
princess cut prasiolite (green amethyst) solitaire accented with three round champagne diamonds on each side, with black enamel to contrast the brown and black

$2,850
1.50CT champagne diamond solitaire engagement ring with 0.38 CT in round, white diamonds pave set in a 14 Karat white gold vintage setting

$2,650
1.42CT cognac diamond solitaire engagement ring in a tension setting. A total of 0.12 CT in round, white diamonds channel set in this 18 Karat white gold ring with yellow gold accent

$2450
1.33CT chocolate diamond solitaire wedding set with 0.75 Carats in round and baguette cut diamonds channel set in this 14 Karat white and yellow gold two piece set.

Black Diamonds

2008-10-27T14:46:00.001-07:00

We usually think of diamonds as brilliant and near colorless, but "black diamonds" are an unusual and unique specimen. Black diamonds are technically carbonado, which can be found in Brazil and the Central African Republic. Black diamonds and black onyx may appear similar at first glance, but they are very different in chemical structure and jewelry value. Black diamonds are often faceted while black onyxes are usually polished flat. The most famous black diamond is the 67 Carat, cushion cut "Black Orlov," and the history/folklore about it can be found here.

None of the black diamond pieces at Handiwork are cursed ;)

Black and white diamond slide pendant (should be vertical)

This 18K eternity band has black and white diamonds pave set completely around the ring

A simple white pearl pendant with black and white diamond accents

And with matching earrings!

Testing for Real Pearls

2008-10-20T15:59:00.001-07:00

A lovely customer came to Handiwork today and wanted to have her pearls re-strung. The cutest part was that she did not know if they were genuine pearls. I taught her this simple pearl test everyone should know how to do.

Take two of the pearls and scratch them together. You should feel a slight resistance as the pearls nacre create friction against one another. Note the small feathery "scratches" left where the two pearls rubbed against one another.

Here is another close up of the "scratch," which can actually be easily removed with your fingers.

Fake pearls will NOT scratch against one another. In fact, you will find they are slippery and have a plastic feel to them. Natural pearls may also have small blemishes, bumps, and color gradations.

Hopefully this pearl scratching trick will replace that funny habit people have developed -- using one's teeth to scratch the pearl's nacre!

Faberge Enamel Jewelry

2008-10-18T16:05:00.001-07:00

Faberge may be known for their stunning eggs, but they have also made a name for themselves in the jewelry industry with their extraordinary craftsmanship in the art of enameling. More information on the laboriously, tedious processes required in perfecting detailed enamel jewelry can be found here.

The oval red rubies in this Faberge ring and earring are accented with diamonds and a beautiful red enamel

This is an elegant Faberge blue sapphire and blue enamel necklace available at Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis, TN

Ways to ensure it is an authentic Faberge enamel piece is to look for tags and stamps
In the clasp of the sapphire, blue enamel necklace, you will see the trademark stamp and 750 imprint to indicate it is 18 white gold

About Faberge

In 1872, Peter Carl Faberge took over his father's jewelry workshop, which had been established in St. Petersburg in 1842. His technical mastery as a goldsmith put him on par with the world's most renowned jewelers. He drew his inspiration from the art of earlier generations which he found in the well-stocked treasury of the Hermitage. As Supplier to the Imperial Court of Russia, Faberge is best known for his unique series of 50 jeweled Imperial Easter eggs dating from 1885-1916. His patrons included most of the world's royalty and other wealthy clientele of his time.

Faberge's creative genius and his quest for originality, combined with his supreme technical mastery are the hallmarks of his distinctive style. His immensely popular Objects of fantasy can be seen in some of the world's most important museums and private collections. Outstanding among these are the collections of H.M. Queen Elizabeth II and Forbes Magazine.

After the 1917 October Revolution, Faberge fled Russia. All of the assets of the Faberge company located within Russia had been confiscated by the new government. Peter Carl Faberge died in Lausanne, Switzerland in 1920.

The famous jeweler to the Tzars, Peter Carl Faberge, used so called "Work masters" to create his wonderful objects of art. The Faberge Company, then in St. Petersburg, now has offices in London, Paris, and New York, to continue this tradition.

In 1990 the Faberge Company appointed the jeweler Victor Mayer GmbH & Co. of Pforzheim, Germany, founded in 1890, as the new and exclusive work master. This firm was chosen because throughout more than 100 years it has continued to maintain the essential manual skills and technical knowledge necessary for the continuation of Faberge's legacy. Under one roof 60 craftsmen exercise more than 30 traditional skills - some of them unique to this firm.

Victor Mayer of Pforzheim, Germany is the only Work master in the world that has been entrusted with the license to produce and sell Faberge Company enameled 18k gold jewelry. Every item created is an original work produced in a limited edition and bears the coveted "FABERGÉ" hallmark and the mark of work master Victor Mayer.

The family owned enterprise, Victor Mayer GmbH & C, was founded in 1890 and is one of Europe's leading producers of handmade jewelry. In more than 30 countries the name of the company founder is synonymous with the craft of the German goldsmith. Creations from Victor Mayer are the result of an unusual combination of tradition and innovation. Their greatest asset is an archive of designs, models, and workbooks as well as specialty tools and equipment from 110 years of company history. Thanks to the knowledge handed down to the fourth generation, the craftsmen at Victory Mayer are able to use rare techniques of the goldsmith's art to produce incomparable jewelry and objects of art for Faberge.

Green Amethyst?

2008-10-17T15:59:00.001-07:00

Amethysts are usually purple, but recently there have been talks of pink amethysts and even green amethysts.

A pink amethyst, as featured on yesterday's post, is usually a light pink, almost light gray purple. The marketing folks have done a great job of re-naming these pale amethysts as "pink amethysts" to highlight their difference from the usual medium to dark purple amethyst.

Green amethysts are another interesting gemstone, because the term is are actually a misnomer. The technically correct term for these light sea green gemstones is actually prasiolites or vermarines, which belongs to the same quartz family as amethysts.

Simple yet bold, this prasiolite ring at Handiwork costs $175.

This cushion cut prasiolite has a simple string of diamonds around the stone and along the thin band. At Handiwork, this ring is available for $425.

Cost: $185

Cost: $145

Rose Gold Jewelry

2008-10-16T13:59:00.000-07:00

In Memphis, we have seen a rising demand for rose gold or pink gold jewelry. An elderly customer recently came to Handiwork and talked about the popularity of rose gold shortly after World War II. Many of American soldiers returned from Europe with rose gold pieces for their significant others. Because gold is naturally yellow, both white gold and rose gold are created by combining different alloys. For rose gold, the alloy of choice is copper. Wikipedia has a short, informative article here.

Here are a few rose gold jewelry pieces we carry at our store:

A simple line of diamonds (1.0 CT) have a slight wave on this rose gold bangle
Cost: $745

This rose gold ring has 0.85 CT in diamonds and is sure to make a statement
Cost: $645

Rose gold ring by designer Le Vian with pink amethyst, pink sapphire, and white diamond (0.30CT)
Cost: $485

Rose gold necklace by designer Le Vian with pink amethyst, pink sapphire, and white diamond pendant
Cost: $365

Rose gold ring by designer Effy with 0.10 CT diamonds, light pink sapphires and faceted amethyst
Cost: $179

Rose gold ring by designer Effy with chocolate/champagne diamonds and round pink amethyst
Cost: $115

Rose gold ring by designer Effy with 0.15CT diamonds and a faceted radiant princess cut pink amethyst ring
Cost: $289

3.50 CT black diamonds and white diamonds bordering a rose gold, dog tag pendant

Hearts

2008-10-15T13:26:00.000-07:00

Heart Pendants

2.08 CT diamond heart solitaire pendant with tapered baguette (SI-2/I)

0.42CT diamond heart pendant with 3 floating diamonds (18K yellow gold)
Cost: $975

0.42CT diamond heart pendant with 3 floating diamonds (18K white gold)
Cost: $975

0.55CT diamond pave heart pendant in 18K white gold
Cost: $725

1.10CT princess cut diamond heart pendant
Cost: $895

0.55CT diamond heart pendant
Cost: $325

0.40CT diamond heart pendant
Cost: $425

0.65CT three drop diamond heart pendant
Cost: $570

1.0CT princess cut diamond heart pendant
Cost: $585

0.85CT baguette diamond heart pendant
Cost: $695

0.50CT diamond heart pendant in 14K white gold
Cost: $295

0.18CT diamond and blue sapphire heart pendant in 14K white gold
Cost: $190

0.50CT diamond heart pendant in 14K yellow gold
Cost: $375

1.50 CT princess cut diamond heart pendant in 18 Karat yellow gold
Cost: $1645

0.56 CT modern diamond heart pendant in 18 Karat white gold
Cost: $795

1.35 CT pave diamond heart pendant in 14 Karat white gold
Cost: $1425

Heart Rings

1.30CT diamonds & pink sapphire ring/pendant 14K white and rose gold
Cost: $1975

0.61CT princess cut diamonds and 0.25CT round cut diamonds in 18K white gold
Cost: $1385

0.40 CT diamond heart solitaire, wedding set

Cost: $515

0.25CT diamond and 2 heart cut red rubies in 18K yellow gold ring
Cost: $595

1.85 CT 18K white, yellow, and rose gold bands (3)
Cost: $1350

0.55CT diamond pave heart ring in 18K white and yellow gold

Cost: $625

0.65CT diamond ring with 3 bezel set, yellow diamonds floating inside
Cost: $845

Heart Bracelets

2CT 14K tennis bracelet
Cost: $1345

0.35 CT diamond pave heart bangle in 14K yellow gold
Cost: $825

Heart Earrings

0.77CT diamond pave heart earrings with French lever backs
Cost: $925

1.50CT baguette diamond earrings 14K
Cost: $585

1.70CT diamond pave heart earrings with floating bezel set diamond
Cost: $1950

14K white and yellow gold earrings with hearts
Cost: $ 155

24K Gold Roses

2008-10-14T10:32:00.000-07:00

At Handiwork, we offer natural roses preserved, and then laced with real 24 Karat gold
($50 per rose)

Some roses have their petals dipped in gold too ($55 per rose)

They come in an assortment of colors, like emerald, pearl, orange, purple, blue, yellow, pink, and of course, red

Red is always a favorite for our romantics

October Birthstone

2008-10-13T09:24:00.000-07:00

The birthstone for October is opal, as well as pink tourmaline or pink ice. Opals are also traditionally given for 14th year wedding anniversaries. A pink sapphire would also be a good substitute for October's birthstone.

Let's start with the opal... there are two main types - white and black. Opal is also a very soft stone, easy to crack and damage so it is best for those that are not super active. Opals are also reflect lots of different colors and are beautiful to admire and wear. More information can be found on Wikipedia and here.

Here are the opal choices at Handiwork:

Oval, white opal ring with 0.25 CT of diamonds: $950

Same opal ring in a different lighting...note the iridescence and various colors of purple, blue, green, yellow, and pink

The colors in this opal ring are lighter but still have flecks of pink: $215

This black opal, dolphin pendant costs $165

This trillion cut, black opal and diamond band costs $575

Pear, black opal ring: $275

Oval, black opal ring: $149
(Should be oriented ho

Marquise, black opal ring: $125

Oval, black opal with 1.45 CT of diamonds: $1675

And here are some of our pink tourmalines:

18K yellow gold with oval, pink tourmaline bezel set: $285

Oval, pink tourmaline with 0.55 CT in round and baguette diamond: $785

Oval, pink tourmaline with 1.45 CT in baguette diamonds: $785

Oval, pink tourmaline with 1.0 CT in round diamonds: $950

Seven inch bracelet with pink tourmaline and 0.45 CT of round diamonds: $1050

White gold emerald cut, pink tourmaline and 1.75 CT diamond bracelet: $2650

And last but not least, some of pink ice (but we can custom make other pieces):

Oval, pink ice stud earrings in yellow gold: $45

Round, pink ice stud earrings in yellow gold: $45

Re-stringing Pearls

2008-10-03T05:23:00.000-07:00

Most pearl necklaces will need to be re-strung every few years, depending upon wear and tear. The heavier the pearls (often of higher quality and larger) have a much more noticeable wearing effect on the string, resulting in frayed strands. The worst case scenario is when the pearl strand breaks. If your pearl necklace was strung properly with knots in between, you will not lose your pearls when the pearl strand breaks.

If you are up for learning to do this on your own, then your best luck may be at a craft store. Look for thin silk thread, small wire/beading needles, a pair of small sharp scissors (pointed tips), and super glue.

The next item is not necessary but it definitely makes knotting easier, faster, and tighter. You can find such knotting tools on Amazon or here.

Here is a small box of French wire (silver colored) that is often used to prevent the string from fraying after prolonged contact with the jump ring of the clasp.

After cutting your pearls or beads, place them onto a piece of cloth so they will not roll around. Take care to keep them in the correct order if they are different sizes or have a specific pattern. If your pearls need some cleaning, take a damp cloth and gently rub off any dirt.

Here are some guiding steps:
1. Measure your necklace or bracelet and multiply this length by four (4). For example, you will need 28" of silk thread for a standard 7" bracelet. Once you become more accustomed to stringing, you can be more conservative. In the beginning, however, the extra thread will be useful and allows room for knots.

2. Thread the silk through the eye of the beading needle.

3. Double the thread and knot the end.

4. String two (2) pearls onto the thread.

5. Cut a small piece of French wire (either gold or silver color) and thread this small piece onto the thread.

6. Thread the jump ring of the clasp onto the thread.

7. Loop the needle back into the nearest pearl, pull until the French wire becomes a small loop. No thread should be seen closest to the clasp.

8. Tie a knot as close as possible to first pearl.

9. Loop the needle through the second pearl and knot as close as possible. There should be a small piece of thread left with the very first knot. Do NOT cut this piece of thread yet.

10. Continue stringing all pearls onto the thread.

11. Use a beading tool like the one below to help tie knots as close as possible to the pearl.

12. STOP knotting when you have two (2) pearls left to finish.

13. Repeat steps 5 to 7, but this time you will need to carefully push the last two pearls together to avoid seeing any of the silk thread.

14. Tie a knot by hand.

15. Now you can close the knots by either (1) carefully super gluing or (2) burning the thread together. I usually super glue using the tip of an old needle or safety pin. Avoid excess super glue because it will make the knot large and unsightly.

September Birthstone

2008-10-02T18:19:00.000-07:00

A bit late but could still be useful for Christmas shopping....

September babies have a great gemstone -- sapphires! The little known fact, however, is that sapphires come not only in the traditional blue, but also in yellow, orange, pink, and sometimes even white or with "stars" on them. Simplygemstones.com, for example, has a great selection of pictures of fancy colored sapphires. White sapphires here, yellow sapphires here, blue sapphires here, pink sapphires here, star sapphires here. The International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) discusses fancy sapphires here. The ICA also offers a more detailed description of the different blue sapphires available here.

In the world of blue sapphires, the most notable ones come from Kashmir, Burma, or Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Other countries, however, also produce sapphires, including Thailand, Australia, Madagascar, Brazil, and even Tanzania. Concern over conflict free or "blood" diamonds also has a spillover into the gemstone world, so the origin of sapphires is often a topic of discussion. When it comes to choosing a blue sapphire, however, it truly is a subjective decision -- someone people prefer a dark blue while others prefer a lighter or cornflower blue. In general, pale and dark ones are less valuable than mid-blue ones with luminosity (catches the light) BUT truly, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Pink sapphires are also an alternative for October birthstones, which are opal or pink tourmaline (or pink ice).

Take a look at few of the sapphire pieces we have at Handiwork:

First, PINK sapphires

Second, YELLOW sapphires

Third, ORANGE sapphires

Note: This is more of an orange/pink sapphire.

And last but not least, BLUE sapphires

Note: The light reflects a beautiful dark blue in this round sapphire.

Note: These sapphires are a much lighter blue than the ones above.

Note: This oval sapphire is a bit cloudier and the blue is not uniform. Some people prefer sapphires with more character.

Note: This marquise sapphire is quite darker than the others shown so far.

Note: This cabochon, oval cut sapphire has no facets.

Note: This round sapphire has a medium cornflower blue hue.

Note: This oval cut sapphire is actually a star sapphire with one or multiple "stars" when reflected in the right light.

Note: This diamond and blue sapphire ring has a matching set of earrings.

Note the subtle light to dark blue sapphires in this wave-like band with diamonds on the edges.

And for non-rings, we have the following with blue sapphires:

Blue sapphire and princess cut diamond (1/2 CT TW) cuff links

This simple but elegant 14K yellow gold bangle has round cut diamond channel set in between three princess cut, bezel set, blue sapphires.

This stunning necklace has pear cut, blue sapphires and round cut diamonds.

Wedding Sets

2008-09-22T12:34:00.000-07:00

When looking at wedding rings, a gentleman recently asked me, "Why do some of the rings come with two pieces?"

It then dawned on me that most men do not realize that a wedding set usually consists of two pieces. I have found that most ladies already know this, but men only have to worry about a wedding band. Men engagement rings have not become popular (yet?). One ring for most men is already one more than normal for them, so adding another one would perhaps be pushing it.

For the ladies, however, the engagement ring traditionally has a diamond solitaire or single diamond as its center piece. I have been seeing a small but growing trend towards non-diamond engagement rings. The most popular so far have been blue sapphires or aquamarines with diamonds on the side. Shades of blue are much easier to wear daily than a pink or red gemstone, which requires more color/clothes coordination. Then again, if her favorite color is pink, perhaps most of her wardrobe would match a pink sapphire engagement ring?

Whatever it looks like, the engagement ring is given to the lady as a promise to get married. Here are some engagement rings:

Note: This simple solitaire diamond engagement ring has a 4mm band.

Note: The side diamonds consist of three tapered, baguette cut diamonds.

Note: This simple diamond engagement ring has five prong set, round diamonds.

The wedding band, however, usually does not have a single diamond. A wedding band could be plain metal (gold or platinum) OR it could have two or more diamonds. Here are some wedding bands:

Note: This 6mm 14 Karat white gold wedding band is "flat" inside.

Note: In this 2mm 14K white gold band is a comfort fit, which is slightly more rounded inside the band.
Note: These diamond wedding bands take it up a notch with more diamonds. The man's has seven princess cut diamonds while the lady's band has prong set, round diamonds. The lady's ring is comfort fit.

Note: These three wedding bands are called eternity bands because the diamonds go all the way around instead of only halfway. These eternity wedding bands are beautiful, and you do not have to worry about the band twisting to the non-diamond half of the band. Care, however, should be taken when wearing because the diamonds on the bottom could be damaged when the palm of the hand hits hard surfaces. One should also remember that eternity bands cannot be easily sized, and while we all do not want to gain or lose too much weight after marriage, sometimes it is hard to prevent (i.e. think about how great a cook your significant other is...)

And now when we put them together, we can call the two pieces a complete wedding set, like these:

Note: There are princess cut diamonds, channel set in these two pieces.

Note: The diamonds are pave set in three rows in this wedding set.

Comments or questions are always welcomed! After growing up in the jewelry industry (20+ years), we sometimes take for granted what is common knowledge.

The 4 C's

2008-09-20T12:14:00.000-07:00

When buying diamonds, knowledge of the four C's will help you effectively compare diamonds. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the leading expert on diamond grading, and Adiamondisforever.com has a great interactive site here.

1. Carat Weight
Let's start with the easiest "C" - carat weight. Carat is often abbreviated as CT, and it is pronounced like a rabbit's favorite food, carrots. One of my customers made the remark, a 5.00 CT diamond would feed a lot more rabbits than a 0.50 CT (or 1/2 Carat). The most common Carat weight purchased is around 1.00 CT (around $3,000 and up, depending on the other C's).

The top of this diagram tells us the "points" or carat weight. There are 100 points in a 1.00 CT diamond. We often use "points" when referring to diamonds smaller than 0.20 CT (or 1/5 CT). The bottom of the diagram tells us the size of the diamonds diameter in millimeters (mm). These millimeter sizes are approximated for each carat weight.

Confusion sometimes occurs with gold karat, abbreviated as K or KT. Gold karat measures the purity of gold, 24K is pure. There are 5 standard purities, 24K, 22K, 18K, 14K, and 10K. There is 18K, 14K, and 10K white, yellow, and rose (pink) gold because adding different alloys or metals brings down the purity of gold and brings out different hues or colors.

2. Color
The next easiest "C" is color because we can usually tell with our eyes if a diamond has a yellow tint. The following figures are from Khulsey and Blue Nile.

Here we can see the far left diamond has a nice "white," and is therefore in the "colorless" range while the far right diamond has a light yellow or champagne/brown tint. Different colors or "warmness" levels complement different skin tones.

Now let's put some letters to these colors so we can go beyond "white" or "yellow":

Diamond Color Designations

D, E, F - colorless (white)
G, H, I, J - near colorless
K, L, M - faint yellow or brown
N, O, P, Q, R - very light yellow or brown
S, T, U, V, W, X, Y, Z - light yellow or brown

Now before you go and say, "Only the best for me or my gal, I want a D-color diamond," let's keep in mind that the GIA estimates only around 600 D-flawless roughs are cut into gems weighing between 1 and 2 carats during a given year. I usually recommend a G or H color because of its price and "whiteness." An untrained eye can usually begin seeing the differences with an I (dull) or J color (slight yellow). When choosing between color and clarity (see #3), we recommend going for a better color. This is especially true for earrings or necklaces where it is harder for others to see inclusions once worn.

Here is another diamond color chart, which shows colors K-Z in more detail. Some people prefer a fancy yellow diamond for its vibrant canary yellow hue.

3. Clarity
The next "C" is clarity, which tells us the relative number, size, and conspicuousness of natural flaws and inclusions. Once again, GIA are creators of the clarity scale and information can be found here. Although there are 11 clarity grades, we are usually working within four general categories. This grading system is universal and allows jewelers all over the world to communicate in the same "diamond language."

These two categories are not commonly found on the market:

Flawless (FL)
No inclusions or blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification
Internally Flawless (IF)
No inclusions and only minor blemishes are visible to a skilled grader using 10× magnification

The four most common, general categories are as follows:

Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2)
Inclusions are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10× magnification
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2)
Inclusions are clearly visible under 10× magnification but can be characterized as minor
Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2)
Inclusions are noticeable to a skilled grader using 10× magnification
Imperfect (I1, I2, and I3)
Inclusions are obvious under 10× magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance

At Handiwork, we are usually working within four grades, starting from the top: VS-1, VS-2, SI-1, and SI-2. I usually recommend no lower than a clarity of SI-1 since it is still clean to the eye without noticeable black carbon, feathers, internal "scratches", or inclusions. Having inclusions is not a "bad" thing, they are simply "birthmarks" as GIA describes them. Like every human, every diamond has its own characteristics, which developed as it was growing in the earth.

Take a look at the chart below for a further detailed clarity scale:

4. Cut
The last "C" is a diamond's cut. Cut can denote the shape of the diamond -- round, marquise, oval, pear, princess (square), radiant princess (rectangular princess), emerald (rectangular but reflects light differntly), heart, Asscher, or cushion (rounded princess).

Cut also refers to the resulting proportions of a diamond after it has been polished and cut. All diamonds are found "in the rough," and it is only with special tools and skills that the brilliance is brought out with facets.

Take a look at the "anatamony" of a diamond:

The "top" of the diamond is the table, while the "bottom" of the diamond is the culet. In old European cut diamonds, the culet is often ever so slightly cut off. A 1.00 CT round diamond could be cut in three different ways as shown below:
While a shallow cut diamond may look "larger" because of its larger table, this type of cut does not maximize the amount of light reflectected out of the diamond. Diamond is a material with one of the highest index of refractions at 2.4175 (source), which is why a diamond sparkles more than crystal (refraction index of 2.0).

A proper cut will maximize this refraction as follows:

5. Certification
While this is not an official "C," it is a useful once, especially for diamonds over 2.00 CT. A diamond certification report meticulously details every birthmark (or lack of) under the eye of a trained, technical expert.

There are four big players when it comes to diamond certification. Starting with the best:
1. Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
2. American Gem Society Laboratories (AGSL)
3. International Gemological Institute (IGI)
4. European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)

All of diamond certification reports details these specifications:
Shape
Measurements
Weight
Depth Percentage
Table Percentage
Girdle Thickness
Culet Size
Polish
Symmetry
Clarity Grade
Color Grade
Fluorescence
Comments about Diamond
Plot of Internal and External Inclusions

If they all detail the same information, why is GIA the best?
GIA has been established the longest (1931) compared to EGL (1974), and they trademarked the International Diamond Grading System. GIA diamond certification reports are renowned for their precision and accuracy, and therefore, there reports are also the most costly.

The cost of having a diamond certified is several hundred (depending on Carat weight), so at Handiwork we find it is more cost effective to carry GIA and IGI certifications for our larger pieces only.

If this more technical post is a bit confusing, feedback on how to make it easier to understand would be much appreciated!

Antique / Vintage Diamond Wedding Rings

2008-09-11T08:48:00.001-07:00

Many of today's modern bridges are choosing antique or vintage wedding rings. It's the kind of ring you probably saw your grandmother wore, and if you were a girl, you probably admired it on her hands. At Handiwork we have a few that I would like to share with you:

This sapphire accented piece has a 1.01 Carat round brilliant diamond (SI-1, H) mounted in the center. There are 4 round diamonds bezel set around the prong set solitaire. A nice light antique filigree work is lightly etched into the mounting. This is a wonderful ring for a lady who loves blue or sapphires.
Cost: $2450

This wide band vintage diamond wedding ring has a 1.05 Carat princess cut diamond prong set. A total of 0.33 Carats in round and princess cut diamonds are pave set in the band. There are 3 princess cut diamonds channel set on each side, and one princess cut is oriented in a diamond shape on each side of the band. The ring is 18 Karat white gold.
Cost: $2350

This simple antique style ring has a 1.35 Carat diamond solitaire in the center, and two round diamonds accent each side, totaling 0.13 Carats. A unique scroll design can be seen on the side.
Cost: $2450

This 14 Karat white gold pave mounting has 0.40Carats of round cut diamonds. There is more of a beading texture down each side. This semi-mounting is available at Handiwork. If you have your own diamond or would like to purchase a loose stone, we are happy to assist in mounting.
Cost: $750

This split shank diamond wedding ring has 0.68 Carats in round pave diamonds. This 14 Karat white gold mounting is also available at Handiwork.
Cost: $875

This traditional 2 piece wedding set (engagement ring PLUS wedding band) has a 0.75 Carat round brilliant diamond solitaire as its center piece. A total of 0.50 Carats in round cut diamonds are mounted in the setting and band.
Cost: $1875

Here is another unique vintage wedding ring with colored stones. In this case, emeralds accent each side of the 0.81 Carat round brilliant cut diamond and 0.25 Carats in round diamonds are pave set in the mounting. There is a subtle scroll design on the side of the ring. This is a great wedding ring for someone who loves green or emeralds.
Cost: $1750

This antique style ring has the characteristic beading of vintage rings. A 0.46 Carat round brilliant cut diamond is mounted in a semi-bezel setting. A total of 0.20 Carats in round diamonds are prong set around the diamond solitaire. The band has a beautiful antique filigree design one each side.
Cost: $950

This dainty antique style ring has a 0.38 Carat round brilliant diamond mounted in 14 Karat white gold. Eight small round diamonds accent the ring in a low profile setting for carefree, everyday wear (minimal prongs means less snagging on clothes!).
Cost: $750

This platinum diamond ring is a dainty but beautiful vintage piece. A 0.40 Carat round brilliant diamond with an exceptional clarity of VS-1 and a color of H is prong set and surrounded by 10 round diamonds. The unique shape of this ring is sure to get many compliments.

Cost: $825

This diamond ring has a 0.72 Carat Old European Cut (OEC) diamond solitaire. A total of 0.40 Carats in round diamonds are prong set in this 14 Karat white gold ring. European cut diamonds are characterized by a smaller diamond table and a higher crown angle. The tip of the diamond on the bottom has also been slightly trimmed, allowing the light to reflect differently than a modern round brilliant cut diamond. You can read more about European cut diamonds and their more recent counterparts here.
Cost: $2450

This custom made vintage style ring has a 0.75 Carat round brilliant cut diamond bezel set as its centerpiece. The ring is 14 Karat yellow gold, but 14 Karat white gold accents the diamond solitaire. This is another great low profile, snag-free ring design.
Cost: $1650

This simple antique ring features a 1.0 Carat round brilliant cut diamond solitaire (SI-2, H/I). The antique filigree details in this 14 Karat yellow gold setting give it a delicate look.
$ 2765

A smaller version is also available at Handiwork. This ring has a 0.37 Carat round diamond and the filigree details on this piece are more floral in nature.
Cost: $475

This antique diamond ring has a total of 0.55 Carats in round cut diamonds. The 14 Karat yellow gold setting is accented by a rhodium white finish around the diamonds.
Cost: $450

This 14 Karat yellow gold ring features a 0.30 Carat round brilliant diamond. The six-sided shape of the ring and the details on the band give this ring a true antique feel.
Cost: $325

Please feel free to leave comments on what you think about these different rings, all of which are available for sale at Handiwork Jewelry.

Remove Watch Links

2008-09-03T14:58:00.000-07:00

After purchasing a new watch, many people find that the watch is either too big or too small for their wrists. A jeweler will be able to remove or add links for around $10, but for those who want to save a little money or learn a new trick, this post is for you. The following directions are for the most popular watch bracelet links, the split pin bracelet. Another good source for other type of watch bracelets are available here or here.

The first step is to determine how many links you need to add or remove to your watch bracelet. This is a bit of a guessing game, but you should factor in how snug or loose you like to wear your watch.

Once again, the fun begins at the back. You will notice the small arrow indicating the direction the pin should be removed. In this case, the pin will be pushed down and out.

You will start at the top of the arrow, and push the pin down and out with either a watch pin remover (pictured below) or a thumb tack and small hammer.

A watch pin remover like the one below costs $5 to $10 and can be found at sites like this one or even on Amazon.com.

Place one side of the watch band on the remover, and align the pin to the hole and push in the direction of the arrow. With the watch pin remover, you need only screw it gently until the pin comes out. If you are removing links, you will need to take out another pin. If you are adding links, now is the time to connect the spare links often provided with your watch. NOTE: If you are removing a total of four (4) links, be sure to take two (2) from each side so the watch bracelet remains even.

Remove the pin, using your fingers, a pair of needle nosed pliers, or a pair of tweezers. Take care not to loose these small split pins. Notice how the split side of the pin is slightly larger. The larger, split side should NOT go in first when re-inserting the split pin.

When re-inserting the pin, be sure to go against the arrow. The non-split, smaller side of the pin will go in first. The split, larger side of the pin is touching the watch link remover.

Voila!
You should be ready to wear your well fitted watch now.

It would be great to get feedback on other ways of doing this without a watch link remover. Also please let me know if you have questions about removing other types of watch bracelet links. The links above may answer some questions.

Peridot: August Birthstone Jewelry

2008-08-27T15:23:00.000-07:00

August is almost over, but if you forgot someone's birthday or are in need of a Christmas present idea, think... Peridot! This lime-green, almost yellow green, gemstone offers quite a striking color. Handiwork has the following finished peridot jewelry available for sale. With nearly all of these designs, we are also able to customize the piece with your preferred color and gemstone!

These natural, round cut peridot stud earrings are mounted in 14K yellow gold.
Cost: $39

This natural, oval cut peridot has a total of 0.20 Carats in round cut diamonds mounted in the 14K yellow gold band.
Cost: $195

This natural, emerald cut peridot weighs has a total of 0.33 Carats in round cut diamonds mounted in 14K yellow gold.
Cost: $385

This natural, oval cut peridot has a total of 0.35 Carats in round cut diamonds mounted in 14K yellow gold.
Cost: $385

This natural, pear cut peridot weight 1.56 Carats. A total of 0.75 Carats in round cut diamonds are channel set mounted in platinum and 18K yellow gold.
Cost: $1250

This natural, oval cut London blue topaz has a total of 0.33 Carats in round cut and baguette diamonds mounted in 14K yellow gold. I have included this ring because it is also available with an oval peridot.
Cost: $335

This natural, round cut peridot is mounted in a simple, 4 prong 14K white gold mounting.
Cost: $75

This natural, princess cut peridot is mounted in a simple, 4 prong 14K white gold mounting. The princess cut is set in a unique, diamond shape.
Cost: $75

This natural, oval cut peridot is mounted in a simple, 4 prong 14K yellow gold mounting.
Cost: $75

Replace a Watch Battery

2008-08-27T13:30:00.000-07:00

At Handiwork Jewelry, replacing a battery costs $6 and takes 5 to 10 minutes. Some people, however, may be more adventurous and want to learn how to do this at home. If you feel like you are going to damage the watch, however, it is best to simply take it to your local jeweler. Cheap or non-sentimental watches would be okay to experiment on. While we mostly take a look at the front of a watch, the real action starts at the back of the watch.

Let's start with this lady's, stainless steel Fossil watch.

First, place the watch on a soft towel so the crystal does not scratch.
When we look at the back of this watch, we see there is a small lip.

Second, if you are at home, take a thin, blunt edge to the lip and with some pressure, lift the case back off. Jewelers usually use a case knife, which is made for this purpose. You will hear a small "pop" as the case back releases.

Once the case back is off, you will see where the small round battery is located. This particular lady's watch has two batteries. Each battery is held in place by a small lever. Sometimes a small spring keeps the battery in place.

After pushing the lever aside, you can easily remove the watch battery with your fingers or a small tweezer. Once the battery is removed, look for rust or dirt as other possible causes of the watch stopping. Rust is a sure sign that water is the culprit. You will probably need to visit a watchmaker or contact the watch company to replace the entire watch movement.

Once you remove the battery, you will see a three digit number or a a seven digit alphanumeric code. In this case, the battery number is 319 (or SR527SW) and it was made by Energizer. You will also notice a positive (+) sign on the battery. This (+) side should be visible once the battery is replaced.

You can buy batteries from Walgreens, RadioShack, or even online. They usually are sold in packs of five and are quite economical if you can get the case back off.

The last step - replacing the case back - is usually the easiest, but it can also pose some difficulties. If you are having problems pressing the case back onto the watch, try laying the watch face down on a soft towel on a hard surface and pressing with your thumbs till you hear it "snap" into place. If you are truly in a conundrum, take it to your local jeweler where he or she can use a device that clamps the case back into place.

Other watches have different case backs. Some have a small depression, while others have an arrow on the case back showing where to start. Other case backs have small screws at each corner. You will need miniature screwdrivers, similar to the ones used for repairing eyeglasses. Some watches, like a Swiss Army watch, have a more complicated watch case back. You may need a tool that fits into 3 of the 5 notches, like the one pictured here:

You will need to rotate counter-clockwise to screw the case off.
If you want to try this at home with other tools, take a look here.

If your watch doesn't fit in the above category, you may have an automatic watch that does not need a battery! Authentic Rolex watches and Seiko Kinetic watches, for example, will continue running as long as they are worn. After two or three days of no motion, however, they will stop ticking and need to be re-set.

After taking the case back off, you may notice a thin strip of black rubber, also known as a gasket. This is used to prevent water from entering the watch. When you take off the case back, be careful to not break the gasket so it will remain water resistant when you place the case back.

Please feel free to offer suggestions or pose other questions you may have! If you have replaced a watch battery at home by yourself, it would be great to hear your thoughts on how easy or difficult it was for you.

Choosing an Engagement Ring

2008-08-12T14:42:00.000-07:00

Whether you are a jewelry person or not, most people (especially gentlemen) will make at least one purchase from a jewelry store in their lifetime. You guessed it, the engagement ring. Sometimes people refer to it as a bridal set, wedding ring, or proposal ring. Whatever the name, it's the ring with a center diamond (usually) and accompanied by a kneeling man (usually). It is also, often times, the first jewelry purchase the gentleman has ever made.

There are 5 questions one should be able to answer:

1. What metal does she usually wear?

yellow gold, white gold or platinum, rose or pink gold

two-tone or tri-color

2. Which diamond shape or cut does she like best?

3. How would you describe her style?

simple and traditional

antique or vintage

modern

unique

4. What size is her wedding finger (left ring finger next to the pinky finger)?
Blue Nile, a leading online retailer of jewelry, offers this useful ring measurement guide. Besides asking her directly or taking her to a jewelry store, you can do the following:

a. Ask her mom, sister, or best friend. The "surprise" effect, however, might be lost if the ladies talk so mum is the word.

b. Steal or borrow one of her rings, preferably one worn on the left ring finger, next to the pinky. You can take it to a local jeweler for sizing or you can use the ring measurement guide above.

c. If she is a heavy sleeper, you can take a piece of string and measure her left ring finger, and convert according to this diamonds.com guide.

d. If you completely do not know, it is best to get a standard size 6.

*TIPS*
Rings with a wide band (5mm or larger) require 1/4 or 1/2 size larger than a thinner band (around 3mm). Another important consideration? Some people have hands that swell more than others depending on temperature or sodium intake. Be sure to measure hands at room temperature because fingers will swell in the summer heat and shrink in the winter or A/C cold.

5. How much do you want to spend?
Ah, so this is what it comes down to... In all honesty, it is best to have a budget because with emotional purchases, those strings can get tugged, especially if you have a very persuasive salesperson. Having a final figure in mind also helps you shop accordingly because $1,000 and $10,000 opens up different doors. The truth is that all doors have beautiful rings behind them. A good salesperson should be understanding, and if he or she pushes you too much, you should be comfortable telling them you would like to stay within your budget. If the jewelry store is willing to negotiate, a budget will also help with bargaining.

People often ask me what is the average amount. I would say most customers spend somewhere between $3,000 to $5,000. DeBeers recommends a figure equivalent to a three month salary. While a diamond is definitely an investment and can always be passed on to your children or grandchildren, the realities of a first home mortgage, wedding expenses, a honeymoon, etc will help you decide on the appropriate budget.

Any questions or thoughts would be wonderful!