Pre-owned Rolex Watches

I definitely do NOT consider myself a luxury watch expert, but at Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis, I have had the opportunity to observe and learn a lot about a few watch brands, especially the well known Rolex watch. In spite of the general awareness and appreciation of Rolex, I am actually more partial to the Cartier, but we shall save that luxury watch brand for another day.

In my personal opinion, I believe the above pictured Rolex Datejust with a two-tone Jubilee band is the most classic and iconic image of a Rolex watch. This style and design has also been replicated and copied as much as possible by other brands and replica Rolex companies. Many people may ask, "Why would I spend so much on a watch? A Timex costs less than $50!"

To that, all I can say is that you pay for what you get, and the fact that Rolex watches from the early 1900s are still traded and collected tells us that they are an investment, a timepiece that can be passed on throughout generations. I also have a Timex, but I do not plan to gift this reliable but velcro strap watch on to my great grandchildren.

The most common question at Handiwork Jewelry is often the simple, "How do I know this is a real Rolex?" This is truly a dilemma, even for jewelers, as fake Rolexes are getting better each year. There are several sites scattered throughout the internet that assist in explaining, like this one: http://www.replicainspector.com/free-replica-watch-guide.htm

Here are my top ten hints for beginners based on experience and research.

1. Genuine Rolex watches do NOT have clear backs.

[Image from www.djbwatches.com]

There are few instances where people prefer this clear back and will go out of their way to purchase an aftermarket part, but Rolex does NOT release their watches with this backing.

2. Authentic Rolex watches do NOT have a battery. An oscillator is at the heart of each movement, which means it will keep ticking as long as it is on your wrist. If set down for 48 hours, you will need to give it a gentle shake to jumpstart the Rolex and its infamous perpetual, self winding, movement.

3. The second hand does NOT have a smooth sweeping movement. This is also related to the oscillator, which ticks five to eight times per second, and accounts for its precision as a reliable time piece. Many watches have second hands that "tick" versus "sweep."

4. The cyclops "bubble" magnifying piece over the date of the watch does NOT make the number larger (2.5x). When examining a genuine Rolex watch, you will notice the number without the cyclops is normal sized, while with the bubble it is larger.

5. The model number (at 12 o'clock) and serial number (at 6 o'clock) SHOULD be found upon removing the watch band, along the case between the lugs. For a reference of years based on serial numbers, see here: http://www.preownedrolex.com/images/html/dateyourrolex.htm

Model Number

Serial Number

Something new to be on the lookout for? Since 2006, the serial number usually located where the band meets the case has been moved to the inside face of the watch -- under the rim of the bezel.

6. The Rolex crown icon SHOULD be found on the stem, and there should be a line or three dots under it. The detail of the crown should look crisp with clean lines.


7. The Rolex crown icon SHOULD be found on the buckle of the watch bracelet.

8. Pins connecting the watch links of the bracelet do NOT have split pins like the average watch. They SHOULD have a small slot for easy removal with a screwdriver.

9. The back of the watch does NOT easily come off. Authentic Rolex watches have a grooved backing that fits 144 small teeth.

10. The BEST way to get a 99% accuracy is to open the back of the watch with special Rolex case opening tools that come in different sizes. The distinctive red gears and detailed precision of the movement have eluded many Rolex replica companies.

Those afraid of making a mistake should either consult a jeweler, purchase a pre-owned watch with its original box and certificate of authentication, or trust a reptuatble, well established jeweler. There are authorized dealers selling and maintaining new Rolex watches, and there are small, family owned jewelry stores like Handiwork Jewelry in Memphis who sell pre-owned Rolex watches, backed by a personal guarantee of their authenticity.

To wrap up, please take a look at some recommended sites I came across while writing this post.

For the most recent releases, models, and trends, definitely visit the official Rolex site.

For a history of the London based Rolex company (originally Wilsdorf & Davis) since 1905, be sure to check out this site: http://www.demesy.com/histories/rolex_watch.html

My favorite highlights include: (1) originally women wore wristwatches in the 1800s, while men carried pocketwatches -- Wilsdorf of Rolex was determined to make a precise and reliable wristwatch to withstand the moisture and dirt associated with daily wear; (2) the water resistant nature lead to its current Rolex "Oyster" name; (3) and Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel TWICE, but her wrist was a bit heavier the second time as she sported a Rolex presented to her by Wilsdorf.

For watch aficionados and luxury watch collectors, vintage Rolex watches (no longer produced) are in a league of their own, with certain model numbers more coveted than others. I recommend this site for more information on Submariners: http://www.vintagesubmariner.com/vintagesubs.html

Rolex watch enthusiasts will also appreciate the informative details and high definition pictures on this site: http://doubleredseadweller.com

If you want to start dabbling into other luxury watch brands, I also recommend this site: http://luxurywatchexchange.com/

P.S. As a scuba diver, I appreciate the water resistance of Rolex and other watch brands to certain depths. The ironic truth, however, is that is not recommended to wear something too shiny with metal in the water, as sea creatures will mistaken it for glistening shimmers of small fish or luring tackle.

Replacing Watch Straps

We get a fair number of customers at Handiwork Jewelry asking us for replacement watch straps, and I have usually been unable to provide concrete assistance, besides suggesting Target or Macy's. Today I found a great site with reasonable prices and selection. It is called www.voguestrap.com, and I was able to find an elusive 6mm leather band!

They teach you how to properly measure the width of the watch strap you will need to order here. Just take a ruler or measuring tape and find the distance between the two lugs, the point where the strap meets the edge of the watch.

Installation is relatively easy, because there is a spring loaded pin which can be depressed into the pin hole of the lug. I find the small tip of eyeglass screws helpful.

Straps, especially leather ones, are susceptible to daily wear, tear, and believe it or not, stink! Some people like to buy different colored watch straps for the different seasons, white for spring and black for winter, etc. More commonly, the leather simply cracks and breaks. Metal straps sometimes have to be replaced if an important piece like the buckle or connector between the lug and strap is lost or broken. I have also seen folks come in with expansion or flexible watch straps that are too big, and these can not be adjusted, but you can buy a smaller expansion strap. Be sure to check out voguestraps.com! They're officially for original Timex replacement straps, but it fit my non-Timex watch just fine.

For specific replacement straps by brands, try watchbands.com.

Good luck!

Remove Watch Links

After purchasing a new watch, many people find that the watch is either too big or too small for their wrists. A jeweler will be able to remove or add links for around $10, but for those who want to save a little money or learn a new trick, this post is for you. The following directions are for the most popular watch bracelet links, the split pin bracelet. Another good source for other type of watch bracelets are available here or here.

The first step is to determine how many links you need to add or remove to your watch bracelet. This is a bit of a guessing game, but you should factor in how snug or loose you like to wear your watch.

Once again, the fun begins at the back. You will notice the small arrow indicating the direction the pin should be removed. In this case, the pin will be pushed down and out.

You will start at the top of the arrow, and push the pin down and out with either a watch pin remover (pictured below) or a thumb tack and small hammer.

A watch pin remover like the one below costs $5 to $10 and can be found at sites like this one or even on Amazon.com.

Place one side of the watch band on the remover, and align the pin to the hole and push in the direction of the arrow. With the watch pin remover, you need only screw it gently until the pin comes out. If you are removing links, you will need to take out another pin. If you are adding links, now is the time to connect the spare links often provided with your watch. NOTE: If you are removing a total of four (4) links, be sure to take two (2) from each side so the watch bracelet remains even.

Remove the pin, using your fingers, a pair of needle nosed pliers, or a pair of tweezers. Take care not to loose these small split pins. Notice how the split side of the pin is slightly larger. The larger, split side should NOT go in first when re-inserting the split pin.

When re-inserting the pin, be sure to go against the arrow. The non-split, smaller side of the pin will go in first. The split, larger side of the pin is touching the watch link remover.

Voila!
You should be ready to wear your well fitted watch now.

It would be great to get feedback on other ways of doing this without a watch link remover. Also please let me know if you have questions about removing other types of watch bracelet links. The links above may answer some questions.

Replace a Watch Battery

At Handiwork Jewelry, replacing a battery costs $6 and takes 5 to 10 minutes. Some people, however, may be more adventurous and want to learn how to do this at home. If you feel like you are going to damage the watch, however, it is best to simply take it to your local jeweler. Cheap or non-sentimental watches would be okay to experiment on. While we mostly take a look at the front of a watch, the real action starts at the back of the watch.

Let's start with this lady's, stainless steel Fossil watch.

First, place the watch on a soft towel so the crystal does not scratch.
When we look at the back of this watch, we see there is a small lip.

Second, if you are at home, take a thin, blunt edge to the lip and with some pressure, lift the case back off. Jewelers usually use a case knife, which is made for this purpose. You will hear a small "pop" as the case back releases.

Once the case back is off, you will see where the small round battery is located. This particular lady's watch has two batteries. Each battery is held in place by a small lever. Sometimes a small spring keeps the battery in place.

After pushing the lever aside, you can easily remove the watch battery with your fingers or a small tweezer. Once the battery is removed, look for rust or dirt as other possible causes of the watch stopping. Rust is a sure sign that water is the culprit. You will probably need to visit a watchmaker or contact the watch company to replace the entire watch movement.

Once you remove the battery, you will see a three digit number or a a seven digit alphanumeric code. In this case, the battery number is 319 (or SR527SW) and it was made by Energizer. You will also notice a positive (+) sign on the battery. This (+) side should be visible once the battery is replaced.

You can buy batteries from Walgreens, RadioShack, or even online. They usually are sold in packs of five and are quite economical if you can get the case back off.

The last step - replacing the case back - is usually the easiest, but it can also pose some difficulties. If you are having problems pressing the case back onto the watch, try laying the watch face down on a soft towel on a hard surface and pressing with your thumbs till you hear it "snap" into place. If you are truly in a conundrum, take it to your local jeweler where he or she can use a device that clamps the case back into place.

Other watches have different case backs. Some have a small depression, while others have an arrow on the case back showing where to start. Other case backs have small screws at each corner. You will need miniature screwdrivers, similar to the ones used for repairing eyeglasses. Some watches, like a Swiss Army watch, have a more complicated watch case back. You may need a tool that fits into 3 of the 5 notches, like the one pictured here:

You will need to rotate counter-clockwise to screw the case off.
If you want to try this at home with other tools, take a look here.

If your watch doesn't fit in the above category, you may have an automatic watch that does not need a battery! Authentic Rolex watches and Seiko Kinetic watches, for example, will continue running as long as they are worn. After two or three days of no motion, however, they will stop ticking and need to be re-set.

After taking the case back off, you may notice a thin strip of black rubber, also known as a gasket. This is used to prevent water from entering the watch. When you take off the case back, be careful to not break the gasket so it will remain water resistant when you place the case back.

Please feel free to offer suggestions or pose other questions you may have! If you have replaced a watch battery at home by yourself, it would be great to hear your thoughts on how easy or difficult it was for you.